Next stop: Humayun's Tomb (though I had to switch to auto rickshaw since bicycles aren't allowed in most of the newer parts of town where they slow the traffic flow).
The tomb itself is incredibly beautiful, a prelude to the Taj Mahal, maintained in remarkable condition. But the adventure lay below the tomb, through an unmarked dark portal. Says the Lonely Planet guide:
". . . the real tomb is six metres under the floor on the lower level. . . it's possible to enter the lower level but you'll need a torch and a strong constitution as the smell of bat-shit is overpowering..." (Delhi, p.165)
Of course that was a suggestion I couldn't pass up. Through the portal it was pitch black. After a couple turns, the hallway narrowed and I could hear bats zipping past my head. I shined my light up at the low ceiling and it was packed with hundreds of little swaying bats. I hunched a little lower and pressed on.
The tomb was another 50 yards or so ahead. No Indiana Jones traps along the way, although I was braced for them. Just more bats, lots of them, coming and going or just hanging out, swaying to some bat music I couldn't hear. I paid my respects to Humayun and his attendants and made my way back out.
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